Here is a little article I wrote for Planetfear.com a few years ago.  Thought I would post it up again for people who missed it!

Underdeveloped Ireland: Mournes

Article by Paul Swail

The north-east Mournes, with
Slieve Donard (850m) on the right.
Lower Cove is visible i
centre-left of the picture *

‘Where the Mountains of Mourne sweep down to the sea.’ The Mournes are a compact group of hills set in the southeast corner of Northern Ireland some 30 miles south of Belfast. The range, although not geographically extensive, offers a variety of granite crags with something for everyone - as long as they don’t mind the walk-ins! The coarse granite is very rough under hand and offers brilliant friction all year round.

History

Ricky Bell on the first ascent of I am Spiderman (E6 6c/7a), Binnian North Tor. Still unrepeated

An excellent historical overview is found in the current guidebook (Mournes: MCI 1988) and anyone with an interest in the development of climbing in the area is directed to this. Any précis unfairly disregards many of the protagonists of the day, but that said, a brief summary would note that although the first recorded activity was by a group of YHANI (NI hostelling association) members in 1935, development only became popular in the 1950s with the formation of the Queen’s University of Belfast Mountaineering Club and the northern section of the Irish Mountaineering Club.

Exploration continued through the 60s and 70s, and in the late 70s / early 80s the area recorded a number of ascents by visiting English climbers. By the late 80s, Eddie Cooper of Belfast, ‘one of Ireland’s most gifted and prolific climbers’, was stamping his mark establishing hard, bold routes (a number of which remain unrepeated) while another local activist, Ian Rea, was seeking out an unending series of classic routes in the E1-E3 category right across the Mournes. The Mournes also host the first established E10 in the UK, Divided Years, situated on the daunting Buzzards Roost. The impressive prow took over 10 years to be repeated and is rumoured to be about F8b+!!

Ricky Bell making the final reach on the first ascent of Thrill Issues of the Jellyman (E6 6c), Binnian North Tor

Active new routing has continued in the intervening years, and recently a noticeable and very healthy climbing scene has gone from strength to strength with many of the obvious remaining lines being quickly snatched up. Local climber Ricky Bell has put up a number of hard and worthwhile lines with ascents of I am Spiderman (E6 6c/7a), currently unrepeated-but not without much attention, as well as We’re all Learning (E6 6c) and Thrill Issues of the Jellyman (E6 6b), all situated on Binnian North Tor, while Sheffield based Simon Moore (of Northern Irish stock) also made a flying visit in summer 2005 to add Crystal Methods (E8/9 6c), also on Binnian North Tor.

Anyway, enough of that... let’s get to the climbing!!

THE CRAGS

Lower Cove

Paul Swail attempting Pressure Point (E6 6b), Lower Cove

Lower Cove is one of the most accessible and popular crags in the Mournes. It lies at the start of the Annalong Valley and is enjoyed by many, due to the variety of routes and as it faces south. The crag is made up of four buttresses and an intimidating East Face, and most of the routes receive plenty of traffic and are generally clean. On First Corner Buttress you will find Meat Grinder (E2 5c) and Great Treacle Sponge Robbery (E1 5b), which both share the same start and are excellent value, as well as Overdue (E2 5c), which is found just to the right and is a contender for the ‘most fallen off route’ in the Mournes! Dots Delight (HVS 4c) is a must do, with little protection for both leader and second.

On Second Corner Buttress, Gynocrat (HVS 5a) follows a broken crack line and equally as good is Aristocrat (E1 5a). Sandwiched between these two is the bold Autocrat (E3 5c), which follows the blank wall above a sole peg. The two pitch Pillar Variant (S) on Third Corner Buttress is a classic with some steep climbing and a very ‘out there’ feeling for the grade. On Fourth Corner Buttress, Swing Low (E1 5b) is very enjoyable but can be quite deceiving at the top. The East Face has only a few routes due to its steep featureless nature. Les Jeunes Filles en Jupes d’etes a.k.a. the French Route (E2 5b/c) is the easiest route on the wall and provides excellent climbing from bottom to top.

Slieve Beg

Joan Mulloy climbing the fantastic Electra (E1 5b), Binnian North Tor (see below)

Located at the top of the Annalong Valley are two excellent crags, both very different in character. The austere Slieve Beg is the largest piece of granite in the Mournes, with 100m routes of 3 and 4 pitches. Burden Of Dreams (E3 6a) is one of the best routes for the grade taking in 4 pitches of outstanding climbing culminating in a vertical heathery finish! Mourne Maggie (HVS 4c) is also great value for the grade, keeping you ‘in the zone’ right up to the top. Equally, Slipstream (E1 5b), The Fiddler (E1 5b) and PJ (VS), are all worthwhile. Adjacent to Beg and much less forbidding, the Annalong Buttress is a great crag for everyone, with routes up to E2 and good protection throughout. Being east facing, it is ideal for a summer’s evening or a crisp winter’s day. Thin Crack (VS 4c) is a classic, well protected crack and ideal for a first VS. Spanish Flea (S 3c) is a long worthwhile and satisfying pitch while Mind Me On White (E2 6a) is a technical but safe test piece, which results in many failures.

Slieve Bernagh and Slieve Binnian

Ali Wilson on Edelweiss (E2 6a),
Bernagh Tors. He later added
the direct finish through
the roof - at E6

The Tors of Slieve Bernagh and Slieve Binnian both offer superb climbing on very clean, rounded granite. Bernagh offers some great routes between HVS and E2. Edelweiss (E2 6a) is one of the best E2s around, the only protection for the crux being a somewhat suspicious peg! The direct finish was added during 2005 at E6. It has been on Binnian Tors where much hard action has been taking place during the past year, but with its many outcrops boasting a multitude of routes ranging from Severe to E8/9, it is a memorable venue for everyone, regardless of grade climbed. Particularly worth doing is Electra (E1 5b), one of the best E1’s around, which climbs some hollow but positive flakes until the crux step left reaches some solid laybacks. The other classics on the Tors are Spectre (E3 5c), Screamers (VS 5a) and Tolerance (E8 6c).

Buzzard’s Roost

Eddie Cooper on the first Ascent of The Spirit Level (E5 5c, 6b, 6a), Buzzards Roost. Divided Years takes the overhanging line to the right *

On the north facing slope of Slieve Binnian lies the intimidating Buzzard’s Roost, home to the world’s first E10 as well as a selection of hard, single and multi pitch routes. Twist of Fate (E4 6a) follows a steep hanging arete to an increasingly more positive crack-line. War Music (E5 6b) and The Spirit Level (E5 5c, 6b, 6a) are also exceptional lines.

Ben Crom

Ben Crom, which hangs proudly above the Silent Valley and Ben Crom Reservoirs, is one of the most picturesque crags in the Mournes. Routes range from VS to E5. Aires (HVS 5b) takes an impressive line through the main face, with one difficult but well protected move at the start of the route. Planxty (E1 5b), which tackles a series of bulgy roofs, is very good and well worth the struggle while Blood Strangers (E3 6a), Cancer (E5 6a), Someone Did (VS 4b) and Restless Eyes (E2 5b) are all impressive. There are some bluffs located below the main crag that have been developed over the last few years and offer good sport.

Pigeon Rock and Hen Mountain

Hangman’s Break (E3 6a), Pigeon

The Mournes’ answer to roadside crags are found at Pigeon Rock and Hen Mountain. The lower wall of Pigeon has a concentrated selection of quality routes in the E1/E2 category including one of the Mournes’ best E1’s, Phantoms, which offers engrossing climbing with reasonable protection throughout. On the Main Face, Virgo (VS 4c) provides four great pitches of exposed climbing albeit with a bit of a vegetated top-out, while Penny Black (E2 5c, 5a) is an absolute classic. The pick of the rest would be Penny Black (E2 5c, 5a) and Falcon (HS 4b, 4b). On Hen Mountain, there is something for all abilities although the gear tends to be sparse and it can even be hard work to set up a belay. Generally slab climbing, relying on friction, Hen is a great place to work on your slab technique, be it on the lead or on the safety of a top rope. Jump Route is a great first VS (or maybe not as there is not much gear to be had). Classics include Escalator (D), Ethical Backfire (E2 5c) and the very bold Journey into Life (E3 5c).

Spellack and the Bernagh Slabs

Ali Moles placing the crucial offset while completing his new route, Torture Chamber (E5 6b), Bernagh Tors (see above)

Spellack, another one of the closer more easily accessible crags in the Mournes (only 25 minutes up the Trassey track valley), offers superb climbing on coarse clean granite, but can be somewhat let down by its northeasterly aspect. However, when dry and sunlit, Too Cool for Cats (E2 5c) gives an excellent pitch, as well as the much-eyed Warhorse (E4 6a). To the left of the main face, Cabin Cruise (E1 5b) and Aries (HVS 5b), are well worth doing. The Bernagh Slabs, found further up the Trassey Valley, are a great introduction to multi pitch climbing. Grand Central (VD), Crooked Chimney (HS) and Hypothesis (S) are among the best routes to be had.

A quick glance at the guide book will reveal that a number of significant crags have been omitted from this article - Upper Cove, Eagle Rocks, Douglas Crag - to name but a few. But the beauty of the Mournes is in the pleasure that the discovery of the unsung hidden gem at an unfrequented venue brings to the climber who bothers to go looking. Perhaps it is these places, which you should visit first.

Bouldering

Over that last few months, many of the local lads have been exploring the bouldering around the Mournes. Binnian offers some of the best. Triggers is a classic at F7b. There will be a topo in the updated guidebook. On top of Chimney Rock Mt. there is a selection of excellent problems. Situated on the beach at the north end of Newcastle is a small piece of rock, which offers good sport on mainly steep fingery crimps. Many of the problems are eliminates and a traverse of the whole wall goes at F7a.

Right: Paul Swail on one of the many
eliminate problems down at
the rockpool, Newcastle

LOGISTICS

The Mournes - what you might need to know!

Getting There:
EasyJet fly into Belfast International Airport from many of the airports in mainland UK. Dublin Airport is also easily reached with Ryan Air flights. Cars can be rented from each airport.
Ferries regularly sail from Stranraer to Belfast as well as Holyhead to Dublin. Check out P&O and Stenaline, but beware that ferries can be pricey if you aren’t sharing.
Newcastle can be easily reached on public transport from both airports, making it a good base for climbing in the Mournes. During the summer months the Rural Rover is a bus service that departs Newcastle and circumnavigates the Mournes on a regular basis throughout the day with stops at all the main access points to the hills. More info at www.ulsterbus.com.

Camping & Digs:
In Newcastle there is a YHA as well as many B+B’s situated along the promenade. If self-catering is your thing then contact the Tourism Office on 028 4372 2222, as there are too many to list! The Tourism Office is also located on the promenade. At present there are only a few public campsites in the Mournes: Meelmore Lodge (028 4372 5949) and Tollymore Campsite (028 4377 2248). Wild camping is also an option.

Season:
You can climb all year round in the Mournes. I have had some fantastic days climbing in January, with just a t-shirt on - just remember to pick a south facing crag! Lower Cove is a good bet. The midges arrive in late May and stay until mid September. Easter tends to be a good time to visit the area, but bear in mind that it does rain a lot, and because they are a mountain range the weather tends to be that little bit worse than other places.

Guidebook:
The current guidebook is out of print, but there is revised guidebook to be published for the end of spring 2006. A new guidebook is being talked about for 2009.

Further info can be found at www.mournesclimbers.com

Sunrise over Slieve Donard

All photos (except those with an asterisk *) are by Craig Hiller.

www.hillerscapes.com